In Year 3 you will focus on realising your creative potential by undertaking a major self-directed project. This practical body of work is supported by the writing of a contextual essay and research projects which will help to critically inform the practical work.
The largest difference between a compact camera and a dSLR or mirrorless camera is that a dSLR or mirrorless can take different lenses, while a compact camera has one attached lens. This is a very big difference that limits the flexibility of a compact camera, although wet lenses can help bridge this distance to some extent.
Dear Scott , I would like to thank you for this useful reviews
you give about uw photography, so far it is definetely the best site i saw around. I still use a compact for my uw photos but would really love to get an housing for my new toy!!! The Nikon d 5000
had a bit of a shock learning from your review about the limited possibilities with fisheye lenses. My question is what about using the Nikkor 10-24mm AF -S Dx instead ?????
Thank you very much for your help
Keep up the good work.
thanks for your input Marcelo. I really don't see a difference, but everyone is entitled to their own opinion. the d300 does have a slightly larger dynamic range, which could show up as small difference in a photo with the sun in it, but I think camera settings and conditions make a larger difference.
Juan, there's no control over Aperture or Shutter speed (which is helpful for underwater photography), and the reviews say the images are soft, so I think there are better choices. - Scott
The programme introduces you to a broad range of approaches to photography and encourages you to explore the boundaries of current photographic practice and related media. The programme has strong links with external partners to develop live projects for example, students have in the past completed a project with Manchester Airport. Through a range of professional, creative and conceptual projects, the course aims to develop a highly individual practice fit for a competitive and contemporary photographic industry.
What do you think of the Olympus EPL-1 in an PT-EP01 casing? I need to shoot super-macro (need to get photos of the polyps of soft corals). Do you think the system is ok to do this?
I have a G12 and Inon D 2000 strobe;good-even very good ones can be made with this set,but...it has its limitations,among others,for good macro/supermacro (Unfortunately I discoverd Lembeh and am just totally bewitched by criTters)Hence,the temptation to upgrade is very strong;what could i buy for a reasonable budget for that purpose?I can figure out a Canon SLR with a macrolenses+housing and decent strobes.I am happy to pay the right price-but not at a medium sized car tag!
Can anyone help a (in hte future poorer) diver?
Thanks in advance
Why did I get a Nikon D500? I shoot a lot of telephoto and wildlife photos topside, so the low-noise and fast frame rate of the D300 was perfect for my topside use. The increased dynamic range will help my WA shots “pop” like those Canon full-frame shots, and the Nikon 60mm and 105mm VR lens are excellent macro lens. But I must say, after shooting with a Nikon D810 on several trips, having 36 megapixels is truly amazing - and you should definitely consider that camera if you can afford it. Read out full
Canon S90 & S95 - Released in Aug 2009 & Sep 2010, these are great cameras for topside and underwater use. They are small, and have RAW, full manual controls, and a fast F2.0 lens. All housings will take add-on lenses. I tried this camera out topside recently, it was easy to use, photos looked great and I loved the large LCD. Has great potential. Housings are out from Canon, Ikelite, and Recsea. Read my writeup on the camera and the different The Canon S95 adds HD video to the Canon S90. The S95 is smaller than the Canon G12, has the same sensor, and has more wet lens options for wide-angle. But the G12 beats it in some areas.
Graduates have gone on to study the MA Photography and/or become photographers, freelance curators, picture editors, exhibition assistants, exhibition artists and teachers.
Anyone considering purchasing an external strobe at some point, should get a camera with full manual controls, imho.
Most of the time, but especially when using an external strobe, it is very helpful to have complete control over how much ambient light comes into the camera. Although exposure compensation can be used to accomplish this to a limited degree, setting the shutter speed and aperture yourself is the best way to control the ambient light.
Ability to fire strobes via sync cord. This is helpful because some otherwise you must use the camera's pop-up flash, which can be slow to recycle and use up battery time. However, sync cords can be a pain, so if you can find a fiber-optic solution that has decent battery life, and a decent recycle time on the internal flash, this is the way to go .